Luxury Goods Retailing - Global

Published by: Mintel International Group Ltd.

Published: Aug. 1, 2011 - 305 Pages



Table of Contents

Introduction

Company coverage

Terms and definitions

Luxury goods - a definition

Market size - Mintel definition

Market size at retail selling prices

Exchange rates

Figure 1: US dollar to euro exchange rates, 2005-10

Technical notes

Financial definitions

Executive Summary

The market

Strong performance in 2010

Possible faltering in later 2011

Variable outlook

Forecast

Figure 2: Global luxury goods: Estimated market size at retail selling prices, 2007-13

Market factors

Potential problems

Tipping point?

HNWIs are key

Market breakdown: where and what

Asia to overtake Europe

Prospects for the Americas

Figure 3: Global luxury goods: Estimated market breakdown by region, 2009 (inner ring) and 2010 (outer ring)

Bounce back for hard luxury

Perfumes and cosmetics outpaced

Soft luxury buoyant

Figure 4: Global luxury goods: Estimated market breakdown by product category, 2009 (inner ring) and 2010 (outer ring)

Companies, brands and innovation

Market shares

LVMH maintains a strong lead

But Richemont a powerful number two

Shiseido in third place

Figure 5: Global luxury goods: Estimated market shares, 2010

Market developments

Focusing on boutiques

Flagship openings

Online investments

What we think

Issues in the Market

After China, where’s next?

Who is today’s luxury consumer?

What’s driving digital?

What new opportunities exist in the post-recession era?

Broader Market Environment

Key points

An international market

Discretionary purchases

Recovery

Western Europe

US

Japan

China, India

Russia

Brazil

Stock markets

Figure 6: Major stock market performance to 5/7/2011

Currencies

Figure 7: Major exchange rate developments, 2002-11 (H1)

Tourism

Figure 8: International arrivals, 2000-10

The growth in numbers of wealthy people

Figure 9: Numbers of HNWIs, 2003-10

Figure 10: World: High net worth individuals, 2006-10

Figure 11: Growth in worldwide share of HNWIs, 2005-10

Global Luxury Goods Market

Market size

Figure 12: Global luxury goods: Estimated market size by major player, 2006-10

Market size at retail selling price

Market shares

Figure 13: Global luxury goods: Estimated market shares of major players, 2008-10

Market size by region

Figure 14: Global luxury goods: Estimated market size by region, 2006-10

Channels of distribution

Market size by channel

Wholesale key to some sectors

Licencing - an opportunity to diversify

Retail is where it’s at

Market Forecasts

Uncertain global environment

Economic growth will slow

Luxury sales rebounded strongly in 2010

2011 off to a cracking start

USA and Europe stronger than expected

The shape of recovery

Figure 15: Global luxury goods: Estimated market size at retail selling prices, 2007-13

Key regions

Europe

Americas

Japan

Other Asia-Pacific

Middle East

Fashion and Leather Goods

Market size

Soft luxury proving dynamic

Figure 16: Global luxury goods: Estimated luxury fashion & leather goods market, 2006-10

Market shares

Figure 17: Global luxury fashion & leather goods market: Estimated market shares of leading brands, 2006 & 2010

Key developments

Men - a major opportunity

Diffusion lines hold their own

Niche brands becoming lifestyle brands

The role of the designer

Changing value of luxury

Celebrities and influences

Fashion looks and trends

Jewellery and Watches

Market size

Strong bounce back for hard luxury

Figure 18: Global luxury goods: Estimated luxury jewellery and watches market, 2006-10

Market shares

Figure 19: Global luxury jewellery & watches market: Estimated market shares of leading brands, 2006 and 2010

Key developments

Continued rising prices

Royal Wedding

Value for money

Increased in-house movement

Demand from China

Watch releases

Perfumes and Cosmetics

Market size

Losing share of the luxury market

Figure 20: Global luxury goods: Estimated luxury perfumes & cosmetics market, 2006-10

Market shares

Figure 21: Global luxury cosmetics & perfumes market: Estimated market shares of leading brands, 2006 and 2010

Key developments

Market recovers

M&A activity muted

Internet gains interest

Key trends

Skin care

Colour cosmetics

Fragrances

What’s next:

Regional and Country Analysis - Introduction

Brazil

Background

Demographics

Economy

Consumer spending and retail sales

Luxury goods market

Figure 22: Brazil: Number of high net worth individuals, 2006-10

Key developments

Surging up the league tables

Consumer trends look favourable

Middle classes are key

Taxes remain a barrier

Consumers pushed abroad

Strong domestic competition

Market activity

Retail development

Brand presence

Figure 23: Brazil luxury goods market: Presence of selected luxury brands, Summer 2011

SWOT

Strengths

Weaknesses

Opportunities

Threats

China

Background

One child policy could hamper economic growth

China overtakes Japan in 2010

And discretionary spending rises

Worrying inflation trends

Retail sales surge ahead

Luxury goods market

GDP per capita growing but still very low

But the gap is less pronounced on retail sales per capita

Fourth largest HNWI population in the world

From billionaires…

… to the middle classes

Figure 24: China: Number of high net worth individuals, 2006-10

Key developments

Another stellar performance drives up investor confidence

Banned billboards to control spending

Or economic protectionism?

Luxury import taxes cause much debate

The gender divide closes

And affords matchmaking opportunities too

SWOT

Strengths

Weaknesses

Opportunities

Threats

Europe

Background

Scale

Diversity

Politics

Luxury goods market

High Net Worth individuals

Figure 25: Europe: Number of high net worth individuals, 2005-10

The East

The West

Trophies

The recovery

Online

SWOT

Strengths

Weaknesses

Opportunities

Threats

India

Background

Demographics

Economy

Consumer spending and retail sales

Luxury goods market

Figure 26: India: Number of high net worth individuals, 2006-10

Key developments

A culture ripe for luxury

Purchasing priorities

Space concerns

Problematic partnerships

FDI rules have proved a bar - up to now

Domestic competition in luxury

Brand presence

Figure 27: India luxury goods market: Presence of selected luxury brands, Summer 2011

SWOT

Strengths

Weaknesses

Opportunities

Threats

Japan

Background

Surprise population rise

Economic malaise

Tragedy strikes

Prolonged retail malaise

Luxury goods market

Figure 28: Japan: Number of high net worth individuals, 2007-10

Key developments

A large but mature market

Changing habits

Operating in a saturated market

Looking to affluent neighbours

SWOT

Strengths

Weaknesses

Opportunities

Threats

Middle East

Background

Lebanon posts above average growth

Saudi Arabia needs more quality space

GDP per capita

The Arab Spring

Luxury goods market

Less than 0.5 million HNWIs

But growing faster than any other region

Kuwait and Bahrain leap ahead

Figure 29: Middle east: Number of high net worth individuals, 2006-10

A younger and more male-focused cohort

Figure 30: Middle east and Global average: high net worth individuals by age, 2010

Figure 31: Middle east and Global average: high net worth individuals by gender, 2010

Key developments

Long tradition of luxury

Activity starts to step up

Better infrastructure and more established wealth than other emerging markets

Focused centres of activity

Dubai shows signs of recovery

International tourist and shopping destination

Capitalising on the Chinese tourist

Beirut in the spotlight too

Joint ventures

SWOT

Strengths

Weaknesses

Opportunities

Threats

Russia

Background

Recovery

Elections coming up

Falling population

Growing affluent middle class

Luxury goods market

High net worth individuals

Figure 32: Russia: Breakdown of population, by average monthly income per capita, 2004-09

Figure 33: Russia: Number of high net worth individuals, 2005-10

Market developments

SWOT

Strengths

Weaknesses

Opportunities

Threats

USA

Background

Population on the rise

The recession

Protracted recovery

Can we really?

The final days of the world’s largest superpower?

Luxury goods markets

Figure 34: US: Number of high net worth individuals, 2006-10

Key developments

Influence on the wane?

The recovery

Luxury tourism potential…

…could be being undermined

SWOT

Strengths

Weaknesses

Opportunities

Threats

Armani

Figure 35: Armani: Share of global luxury goods market, 2006-10

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 36: Armani Financial performance, 2006-10

Figure 37: Armani: Sales by brand and by region, 2010

Store portfolio

Figure 38: Armani: Outlets, 2006-10

Figure 39: Armani: Outlets by brand, 2008-10

Brand offering

Figure 40: Armani: Brands, 2011

e-commerce

Bulgari SpA

Figure 41: Bulgari: Share of global luxury goods market, 2006-10

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 42: Bulgari SpA: Financial performance, 2006-10

Figure 43: Bulgari SpA: Sales growth rates by category, 2008-09, 2009-10, Q4 2010, Q1 2011

Figure 44: Bulgari SpA: Contribution to revenue by category, 2006-10

Figure 45: Swiss-watch certificates issued by the COSC, 2007-09

Figure 46: Bulgari SpA: Net revenue growth for selected regions, 2008-Q1 2011

Figure 47: Bulgari SpA: Net revenue by region, 2006-10

Figure 48: Bulgari SpA: Growth rates in Chinese net revenues, 2009, 2010 and Q1 2011

Figure 49: Bulgari SpA: Contribution to revenue by region, 2006-10

Distribution

Figure 50: Bulgari SpA: Outlet numbers, 2006-10

Brand offering

e-commerce

Burberry

Figure 51: Burberry: Share of global luxury goods market, 2006-10

Strategic evaluation

Outlook

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 52: Burberry Group: Financial performance, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 53: Burberry Group: Revenue by channel, 2005/06, 2009/10 and 2010/11

Figure 54: Burberry Group: Revenue by regional destination, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 55: Burberry Group: FY retail/wholesale revenue by region and % year-on-year growth on underlying basis, 2010/11

Distribution

Figure 56: Burberry retail division: Directly-operated outlet data, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 57: Burberry Group: Directly-operated and franchise outlets, by region, 2010/11

Brand offering

Market positioning/target audience

Product offer

Figure 58: Burberry Group: Retail/wholesale revenue by product category, 2009/10 and 2010/11

Figure 59: Burberry Group: Product categories retail/wholesale revenue and % year-on-year growth on underlying basis, FY 2011

Figure 60: Burberry Group: Product pyramid

Advertising

Ethical/Environmental issues

e-commerce

Christian Dior Couture

Figure 61: Christian Dior couture: Share of global luxury goods market, 2006-10

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Ownership

Financial performance

Figure 62: Christian Dior Couture: Financial performance, 2006-10

Sales by business sector

Figure 63: Christian Dior Couture: Total revenue, by business sector, 2006-10

Retail revenues by region

Figure 64: Christian Dior Couture: Retail revenue by geographic region, 2006-10

Distribution

Figure 65: Christian Dior Couture: Outlet numbers, 2006-10

Figure 66: Christian Dior Couture: Store coverage by geographic region, 2010

Brand offering

Market positioning and values

Product offer

Marketing

e-commerce

Estée Lauder Companies

Figure 67: Estée Lauder: Share of global luxury goods market, 2006-10

Recent history

Strategic evaluation

Financial performance

Figure 68: Estée Lauder: Group financial performance, by region, 2005/06-2009/10

By region

Figure 69: Estée Lauder: Group sales by region, 2009/10

By product area

Figure 70: Estée Lauder: Group financial performance, by product area, 2005/06-2009/10

Figure 71: Estée Lauder: Group sales by product category, 2009/10

Distribution

Figure 72: Estée Lauder, Net sales by distribution channel, 2004/05 and 2009/10

Brand offering

e-commerce

Figure 73: Estée Lauder websites, 2011

Gucci Group

Figure 74: Gucci Group: share of global luxury goods market, 2006-2010

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 75: Gucci Group: Financial data, 2006-10

Figure 76: Gucci Group: Share of group sales, by region, 2006 and 2010

Figure 77: Gucci Group: Relative sales importance, by brand division, 2006 and 2010

Figure 78: Gucci Group: Gucci division -turnover by product category and region, 2006-10

Figure 79: Gucci Group: Bottega Veneta division -turnover by product and region, 2006-10

Figure 80: Gucci Group: Yves Saint Laurent division -turnover by product and region, 2006-10

Figure 81: Gucci Group: Other brands division -turnover by product and region, 2006-10

Figure 82: Gucci group: Interim sales and profit, 2010 and 2011

Distribution

Figure 83: Gucci Group: Directly-operated stores, by brand, 2006-10

Figure 84: Gucci Group: Directly-operated stores by brand and region, 2009 and 2010

Brand offering

Market positioning and brand essence

Figure 85: Gucci Group: Brand essence and positioning, 2011

Product offer

Figure 86: Gucci Group: Breakdown of revenue, by major category, 2010

Figure 87: Gucci Group: Main product categories, by brand, 2011

Advertising and marketing

e-commerce

Figure 88: Gucci Group: Group websites, 2011

Hermès International

Figure 89: Hermès: Share of global luxury goods market, 2006-10

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 90: Hermès: Financial performance, 2006-10

Sales by region

Figure 91: Hermès: Share of group sales by region, 2006 and 2010

Sales by product category

Figure 92: Hermès: Sales by major product category, 2006-10

Distribution

Figure 93: Hermès: Retail outlets, 2006-10

Figure 94: Hermès: Stores by region, 2007-10

Brand offering

Market positioning

Product offer

Figure 95: Hermès: Product breakdown, 2010

Marketing

e-commerce

L’Oréal (Luxury Division)

Figure 96: L’Oréal luxury division: Share of global luxury goods market, 2006-10

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 97: L’Oréal: Sales by division, 2009-10

Figure 98: L’Oréal Luxury division: Financial performance, 2006-10

Sales by region and product area

Figure 99: L’Oréal Luxury division: Sales by region and product area, 2009 and 2010

Figure 100: L’Oréal Luxury division: Sales breakdown by geographic region, 2005 and 2010

Figure 101: L’Oréal Luxury division: Sales breakdown by product area, 2005 and 2010

First half 2011 results

Distribution

Brand offering

Market positioning

Product offer and major lines

Figure 102: L’Oréal: Luxury brands, product offer and major lines, 2011

e-commerce

Figure 103: L’Oréal luxury brands: E-commerce offer, July 2011

LVMH Holding

Figure 104: LVMH: Share of global luxury goods market, 2006-10

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 105: LVMH: Group financial performance, 2006-10

Figure 106: LVMH: Relative sales importance, by division, 2006 and 2010

Figure 107: LVMH: Relative profit importance, by division, 2006 and 2010

Sales by region: Rest of Asia drives growth

Figure 108: LVMH: Group sales by region, 2010

Regional sales by division

Figure 109: LVMH: Fashion & leather goods division sales breakdown, by region, 2001, 2009 and 2010

Figure 110: LVMH: Perfumes and cosmetics division sales, by region, 2001, 2009 and 2010

Figure 111: LVMH: Watches and jewellery division sales, by region, 2001 and 2009

Figure 112: LVMH: Sales growth by division and region, 2009-10

Figure 113: LVMH: Performance by luxury brand, 2010

Figure 114: LVMH: Sales by luxury division, interim period 2010 and 2011

Distribution

Figure 115: LVMH: Group outlet numbers, by region, 2006-10

Figure 116: LVMH: Outlet data by luxury brand, 2010

Brand offering

Market positioning and brand essence

Figure 117: LVMH: Brand positioning/essence, 2010/11

Product offer

Figure 118: LVMH: Main product categories by brand, 2010/11

Innovation

Marketing

e-commerce

Polo Ralph Lauren Corp

Figure 119: Polo Ralph Lauren: Share of global luxury goods market, 2006-10

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 120: Polo Ralph Lauren: Group Financial performance, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 121: Polo Ralph Lauren: Revenue contributions by segment, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 122: Polo Ralph Lauren: Turnover by region, 2006/07-10/11

Figure 123: Polo Ralph Lauren: Total group turnover by region, 2008/09-2010/11

Note: No continuous data prior to 2008/09 as Asia was not reported as a segment.

Figure 124: Comparable store sales by fascia, 2009/10-2010/11

Distribution

Figure 125: Polo Ralph Lauren: Company-owned outlet numbers, 2008-11

Figure 126: Polo Ralph Lauren: Retail outlets supplied, 2010-11

Figure 127: Polo Ralph Lauren: % breakdown of outlet numbers supplied, 2010-11

Figure 128: Polo Ralph Lauren: Owned retail outlets, by region, 2010-11

Brand offering

Figure 129: Polo Ralph Lauren: Brands and positioning, 2011

Figure 130: Polo Ralph Lauren: Advertising expenditure, 2008/09-2010/11

e-commerce

Figure 131: Polo Ralph Lauren: Unique visitor and customer numbers, 2009/10-2010/11

Prada

Figure 132: Prada Holding NV: Group share of global luxury market, 2006-10

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 133: Prada Group: Financial data, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 134: Prada Group: Sales by region, 2009/10 and 2010/11

Distribution

Brand offering

Product offer

Figure 135: Prada Group and major brands: Sales by major product category, 2010/11

Figure 136: Prada Group: Sales growth, by major product category, 2009/10 and 2010/11

e-commerce and home shopping

Richemont

Figure 137: Richemont Group: Share of global luxury market, 2006-10

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 138: Richemont Group: Financial performance, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 139: Richemont Group: Sales performance, by region, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 140: Richemont Group: Contribution to total sales by region, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 141: Richemont Group: Financial performance by business segment, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 142: Richemont group: Sales by business segment, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 143: Richemont Group: Sales by product line, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 144: Richemont Group: Sales growth rates, by product category, 2009/10 and 2010/11

Figure 145: Richemont Group: Turnover by product category, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 146: Richemont Group: Performance by brand, 2009/10-2010/11

Distribution

Figure 147: Richemont Group: Number of outlets, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 148: Richemont Group: Number of outlets, by brand, 2006/07-2010/11

Distribution developments by brand

Figure 149: Richemont Group: Distribution developments by brand 2009/10 and 2010/11

Brand offering

Figure 150: Richemont group: Brand positioning

Figure 151: Richemont Group: Product developments, 2009/10 & 2010/11

Advertising and marketing

e-commerce

Figure 152: Richemont Group: Brand websites, 2011

Shiseido

Figure 153: Shiseido: Share of global luxury goods market, 2006-10

Recent history

Strategic evaluation

Financial performance

Figure 154: Shiseido: Financial performance, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 155: Shiseido: Sales by region, 2010/11

Figure 156: Shiseido: Financial performance, by region, 2006/07-2010/11

Distribution

Brand offering

e-commerce

Swatch

Figure 157: Swatch Group (Luxury): Estimated share of global luxury goods market, 2006-10

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 158: Swatch Group: Financial data, 2006-H1 2011

Figure 159: Swiss-watch certificates issued by the COSC, 2007-09

Figure 160: Swatch Group: Estimated contribution to watch & jewellery sales by brand/segment, 2010

Figure 161: Swatch Group: Turnover by region, 2006-10

Figure 162: Swatch Group: Total group turnover, by region, 2006-10

Distribution

Figure 163: Swatch Group: Retail fascia, 2010

Brand offering

Figure 164: Swatch Group: Watch brands by segment, 2010

e-commerce

Figure 165: Swatch Group: Brand websites, 2011

Tiffany & Co

Figure 166: Tiffany & Co: Share of global luxury goods market, 2006-10

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 167: Tiffany & Co: Financial performance, 2006/07-2010/11

Figure 168: Tiffany & Co: Turnover by region, 2006/07-2010/11

Distribution

Figure 169: Tiffany & Co: Outlet data, 2006/07-2010/11

Brand offering

Market positioning/brand values

Product offer

Brands

Price

Advertising

Home shopping and e-commerce

Valentino Fashion Group

Figure 170: Valentino: Share of global luxury goods market, 2006-10

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 171: Valentino Fashion Group: Financial performance, 2006/07-2010/11

Distribution

Figure 172: Valentino: Boutiques, 2010

Figure 173: Valentino Fashion Group: Outlets, 2009

Brand offering

Figure 174: Valentino: Principal brands, 2010

Figure 175: Hugo Boss: Principal brands, 2010

e-commerce

Appendix - Broader Market Environment

Population

Figure 176: Selected luxury goods markets: Total population, 2006-10

Figure 177: Selected luxury goods markets: Population breakdown, by age group, 2010

GDP

Figure 178: Selected luxury goods markets: GDP (in current prices), 2001-10

Figure 179: Selected luxury goods markets: GDP growth rates (in constant prices), 2001-10

Consumer prices

Figure 180: Selected luxury goods markets: Consumer prices, 2006-10

Retail sales

Figure 181: Selected luxury goods markets: Total retail sales, 2006-10

High Net Worth individuals

Figure 182: Selected luxury goods markets: HNWI numbers, 2006-10

Figure 183: Selected luxury goods markets: HNWIs as a proportion of the total population, 2006-10

Exchange rates

Figure 184: Selected luxury goods markets: $ to currencies of markets in this report, 2006-10

Figure 185: Selected luxury goods markets: € to currencies of markets in this report, 2006-10


Abstract

“We are on the cusp - in two respects. Longer term trends herald the usurpation by Asia of Europe as the largest luxury goods market by revenues. More immediately, and worryingly, financial crises in Europe and the US threaten a stalling of the global economic recovery and will certainly have dented the confidence of the luxury goods consumer.”

- John Mercer, European Retail Analyst
  • After China, where’s next?
  • Who is today’s luxury consumer?
  • What’s driving digital?
  • What new opportunities exist in the post-recession era?
During the course of our research we have come across a number of definitions of 'luxury goods', some of which were conflicting, however most were based upon the notion of 'luxury goods' as representing the top sector in any product market. For the purposes of this report we will follow this consensus definition.

However, we would also advise readers that it is helpful to consider the definition as referring to the special element of a luxury product that makes it desired for its own sake rather than any function that it may have.

With the development of the concept of 'accessible items' and the inherent 'aspirational' element in the notion of 'luxury', many luxury goods businesses have extended their reach to a broader audience of consumers, outside of their traditional target group (ie high net worth individuals). This makes a consistent definition of what constitutes a luxury good more difficult to establish. Therefore we believe that our relational definition, ie the 'top sector of any market', is the most useful.

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