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Published by: Key Note Publications Ltd
Published: Nov. 1, 2008 - 188 Pages
Table of Contents
- Executive Summary
- 1. Introduction
- BACKGROUND
- METHODOLOGY
- DEFINITION
- 2. Strategic Overview
- MARKET DYNAMICS AND SEGMENTATION
- The UK Economy
- Table 1: Household Final Consumption Expenditure by Selected Items at Current Prices (£m), 2003-2007
- Retail Sales and the Current Economic Outlook
- Population Trends and Demographics
- Table 2: The UK Population by Age and Sex (million), Mid-1971 and Mid-2006
- Table 3: UK Population Estimates by Age and Sex (000), Mid-2006
- Living Arrangements
- Table 4: Households in Great Britain by Number of Persons (%), 1971, 1981, 1998, 2002 and 2006
- Table 5: Proportion of People in Great Britain Living Alone — 16 to 24 Year-Olds and All Adults (%), 1973, 1998, 2002 and 2006
- Family Expenditure
- Table 6: Usual Gross Weekly Household Income of Families in Great Britain With Dependent Children by Family Type (£ and %), 2006
- Employment
- Table 7: Economic Activity Among UK Adults Aged 16 or Over by Employment Status and Sex (million), Second Quarters 1992 and 2007
- Specifics of the Youth Market
- Table 8: UK Population Estimates for 10 to 24 Year-Olds by Age and Sex (000), Mid-2006
- Working Patterns
- Table 9: Socio-Economic Classification for 16 to 24 Year-Olds in Great Britain Based on Own Current or Last Job (%), 2006
- Education
- Table 10: Number of Students in the UK at Higher Education Institutions by Level of Study, 2006/2007
- Relationships
- Table 11: Marital Status of Male and Female 16 to 24 Year-Olds in Great Britain (%), 2006
- Table 12: Adults Living With Their Parents by Sex and Age (%), 1991, 2001, 2002, 2005 and 2006
- Attitudes and Identity
- Sexuality
- Body Size
- Influences and a Cultural Separation From Parents
- Technology and Social Networking
- Other Technology and the Leisure Industry
- Political Fashion
- Basic Fashion and the Young Consumer
- Market Size
- Table 13: The Total UK Market for Clothing, Footwear and Accessories for 13 to 24 Year-Olds by Sex by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008
- Figure 1: The Total UK Market for Clothing, Footwear and Accessories for 13 to 24 Year-Olds by Sex by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008
- FORECASTS
- Table 14: The Forecast UK Market for Clothing, Footwear and Accessories for 13 to 24 Year-Olds by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2009-2013
- 3. Retailer Strategies and Brand Management
- MARKETING STRATEGIES
- Marketing Via the Youth Culture
- Music
- Mobile Marketing
- Use of the Internet
- Brand Strategy
- Retailer Brands
- Discount Retailer Brands
- CONSUMER TRENDS
- Table 15: Summary of Attitudes Towards Fashion and Branding by Sex and Age (% of respondents), August 2008
- 4. The Fashion Industry
- INTRODUCTION
- Industry Dynamics
- Table 16: The Apparent UK Market for the Manufacture of Clothing by Type by Value (£m at msp), 2003-2007
- The Impact of Globalisation
- Table 17: Imports of Clothing and Footwear From Selected Countries of Origin by Value (£m), Year Ending August 2007
- Number of Clothing Manufacturers in the UK
- Table 18: Number of UK VAT-Based Enterprises Engaged in the Manufacture of Wearing Apparel and in the Dressing and Dyeing of Fur by Turnover Sizeband (£000), 2006-2008
- Table 19: Number of UK VAT-Based Enterprises Engaged in the Manufacture of Wearing Apparel and in the Dressing and Dyeing of Fur by Government Office Region, 2006-2008
- FASHION TRENDS
- UK Designers
- Youth Tribes
- Fast Fashion
- Textile Trends
- CONSUMER TRENDS
- The Popularity of Synthetic Materials Among Young Consumers
- Table 20: Summary of Attitudes Towards Textiles in Fashion by Sex and Age (% of respondents), August 2008
- The Retail Industry
- Usage of High-Street Retailers by the Youth Market
- Table 21: Demographic Analysis of Users of Leading Clothing Multiples (% of adults), 2007
- Use of Department Stores
- Table 22: Demographic Analysis of Users of Other Multiples Selling Clothing and/or Footwear (% of adults), 2007
- Use of Supermarkets
- Table 23: Demographic Analysis of Users of Supermarkets for Clothing (% of adults), 2007
- The Rise of Discount Retailing
- Other Retailing
- eBay
- Consumer Attitudes Towards Retailers
- Table 24: Summary of Attitudes Towards the Retail Strategies of Clothing Outlets by Sex and Age (% of respondents), August 2008
- Table 25: Summary of Attitudes Towards Clothing Retailers' Image by Sex and Age (% of respondents), August 2008
- 5. The UK Clothing Market
- OVERVIEW
- The Performance of Retail Sales
- Table 26: The Total UK Clothing and Footwear Market by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008
- Retail Prices
- Table 27: Retail Price Indices for Clothing and Footwear (1987=100 and 2003=100), 2003-2007
- WOMENSWEAR
- Key Trends
- Blurring of Definitions
- Body-Size Technology
- More Revealing Styles, and Underwear as Overwear
- Clothing for a Range of Occasions
- Market Size
- Table 28: The UK Market for Women's, Girls' and Infants' Clothing by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008
- Major Players
- MENSWEAR
- Key Trends
- Casual Dress Sense
- Multi-Purpose Sportswear and Jeans
- Designer Labels Are More Important
- Market Size
- Table 29: The UK Market for Men's and Boys' Clothing by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008
- Major Players
- SPORTSWEAR
- Key Trends
- Globalised Sourcing and Branding
- Consolidation in Branding and Sports Retailing
- Sports Participation and Sports Leisurewear
- Discounting and a Blurring of Boundary Definitions
- Table 30: Sportswear's Share of the Total Clothing and Footwear Markets by Value (%), 2003-2007
- Sportswear is Integral to Male Fashion
- Market Size
- Table 31: The UK Market for Sportswear by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008
- Major Players
- Table 32: Leading Suppliers of Sports Clothing and Footwear by Turnover ($, E and £), 2007
- Nike Inc
- Adidas AG
- Other Manufacturers
- Major Sports Retailers
- JEANS
- Key Trends
- Discount Versus Designer
- Table 33: Purchasing of Jeans in Great Britain in the Past 12 Months by Amount Spent by Sex, Age, Social Grade and Region (% of adults), 2007
- Market Size
- Major Players
- FOOTWEAR
- Key Trends
- An Increasingly Imported Market
- Branding Attracts Young Buyers
- Casual Shoes Are Here to Stay
- Fashion Shifts Are Unremitting
- Market Size
- Table 34: The UK Market for Footwear by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008
- Major Players
- C&J Clark Ltd
- Company Structure
- Financial Results
- Other General Footwear Companies
- ACCESSORIES
- Key Trends
- High Point of a Cyclical Market
- The Role of Designer Brand Collections
- Specialist Retailers Expand the Market
- Market Size
- Table 35: The UK Market for Clothing Accessories by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008
- Major Players
- Consumer Trends
- Table 36: Summary of Purchasing Habits With Regard to Clothing Accessories by Sex and Age (% of respondents), August 2008
- 6. Advertising
- MAIN MEDIA ADVERTISING EXPENDITURE
- Table 37: Main Media Advertising Expenditure by Clothing Manufacturers and Clothing Retailers by Sector (£000), Year Ending June 2008
- Product Advertising
- Jeans
- Table 38: Main Media Advertising Expenditure on Jeans by Brand (£000), Year Ending June 2008
- Retail Advertising
- Table 39: Main Media Advertising Expenditure by Selected Clothing Retailers (£000), Year Ending June 2008
- 7. Consumer Dynamics
- INTRODUCTION
- ATTITUDES TOWARDS BRANDS AND DESIGNERS
- `Latest' Fashion is the Key
- Table 40: Importance of Having the Latest Fashions (% of respondents), August 2008
- Men Are More Brand-Orientated
- Table 41: Importance of Branding and Design of Clothing (% of respondents), August 2008
- Table 42: Those Who Buy Designer Clothing More Often Than Clothing From the Average High-Street Retailers (% of respondents), August 2008
- PREFERENCES REGARDING TYPES OF FABRICS
- More Than Half of All Consumers Say That The Types of Textiles Used Are `Very Important' to Them
- Table 43: Importance of the Types of Textiles Used to Make Garments (% of respondents), August 2008
- Popularity of Modern Synthetic Fabrics is Highest Among Younger Consumers
- Table 44: Those Who Like Clothes Made From Modern Synthetic Fabrics (% of respondents), August 2008
- Under-25s Are the Least Inclined to Like Clothes Made From Natural Fabrics
- Table 45: Those Who Like Clothes Made From Natural Fabrics (% of respondents), August 2008
- ATTITUDES TOWARDS RETAILERS
- Retailing Strategy
- Teenagers Are the Most Inclined to Associate Retailers' Success With Frequent Changes of Product Lines
- Table 46: Attitudes Towards Retailers' Frequency of Changing Their Lines of Merchandise (% of respondents), August 2008
- Visuals Are Important
- Table 47: Importance of Store Layout and Type of Merchandise on Offer When Deciding Where to Buy Clothes (% of respondents), August 2008
- Size is Not Important
- Table 48: Opinions About Range of Choice in Larger Retailers Versus Smaller Retailers (% of respondents), August 2008
- Retailers' Image
- The High Street
- Table 49: Those Who Like to Buy Clothes From a Retailer With a Modern Image (% of respondents), August 2008
- Table 50: Opinion That Teenage Fashions Are Well Represented by the High-Street Retailers (% of respondents), August 2008
- US Influences
- Table 51: Those Who Like American Fashion and Retailers More Than Their UK Counterparts (% of respondents), August 2008
- ACCESSORIES
- Table 52: Those Who Like to Buy Accessories Every Time They Purchase Clothes (% of respondents), August 2008
- Table 53: Those Who Find it Convenient to Buy Clothes and Accessories From the Same Retailer (% of respondents), August 2008
- 8. Company Profiles
- INTRODUCTION
- ARCADIA GROUP LTD
- Company Structure
- Brand Information
- Menswear
- Burton and Topman
- Womenswear
- Dorothy Perkins
- Miss Selfridge
- Topshop
- Marketing Strategy and Merchandising
- Profitability
- Table 54: Financial Results for Arcadia Group Ltd (£000 and %), Year Ending 27th August 2005, 53 Weeks Ending 2nd September 2006 and Year Ending 1st September 2007
- Table 55: Financial Results for Taveta Investments Ltd (£000 and %), Year Ending 27th August 2005, 53 Weeks Ending 2nd September 2006 and Year Ending 1st September 2007
- FRENCH CONNECTION GROUP PLC
- Company Structure
- Brand Information
- Marketing Strategy and Merchandising
- Profitability
- Table 56: Financial Results for French Connection Group PLC (£000 and %), Years Ending 31st January 2006-2008
- GAP INC
- Company Structure
- Brand Information
- Marketing Strategy and Merchandising
- Profitability
- H&M HENNES & MAURITZ AB
- Company Structure
- Brand Information
- Marketing Strategy and Merchandising
- Profitability
- Table 57: Financial Results for H&M Hennes & Mauritz UK Ltd (£000 and %), Years Ending 30th November 2005-2007
- MARKS AND SPENCER PLC
- Company Structure
- Brand Information
- Marketing Strategy and Merchandising
- Profitability
- Table 58: Financial Results for Marks and Spencer PLC (£000 and %), Years Ending 1st April 2006, 31st March 2007 and 29th March 2008
- NEW LOOK RETAILERS LTD
- Company Structure
- Brand Information
- Marketing Strategy and Merchandising
- Profitability
- Table 59: Financial Results for New Look Retailers Ltd (£000 and %), Years Ending 26th March 2005, 25th March 2006 and 24th March 2007
- NEXT PLC
- Company Structure
- Brand Information
- Marketing Strategy and Merchandising
- Profitability
- Table 60: Financial Results for Next PLC (£000 and %), Years Ending 28th January 2006, 27th January 2007 and 26th January 2008
- PRIMARK STORES LTD
- Company Structure
- Brand Information
- Marketing Strategy and Merchandising
- Profitability
- Table 61: Financial Results for Primark Stores Ltd (£000 and %), Years Ending 17th September 2005, 16th September 2006 and 15th September 2007
- RIVER ISLAND CLOTHING CO LTD
- Company Structure
- Brand Information
- Marketing Strategy and Merchandising
- Profitability
- Table 62: Financial Results for River Island Clothing Co Ltd (£000 and %), Year Ending 25th December 2004, 53 Weeks Ending 31st December 2005 and Year Ending 30th December 2006
- SIGNIFICANT BRANDS IN THE UK TEENAGE FASHION MARKET
- Diesel
- Levi Strauss
- 9. The Future
- ECONOMIC FORECASTS
- Gross Domestic Product
- Table 63: Forecast UK Growth in Gross Domestic Product in Real Terms (%), 2008-2012
- Inflation
- Table 64: Forecast UK Rate of Inflation (%), 2008-2012
- Employment
- Table 65: Forecast Actual Number of Unemployed Persons in the UK (million), 2008-2012
- FUTURE TRENDS
- Lifestyle Trends
- Consumer Trends
- The Future of the Retail Clothing Market
- Retailing Trends
- Branding
- FORECASTS 2009 TO 2013
- Table 66: The Forecast UK Market for Clothing, Footwear and Accessories for 13 to 24 Year-Olds by Sex by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2009-2013
- Figure 2: The Forecast UK Market for Clothing, Footwear and Accessories for 13 to 24 Year-Olds by Sex by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2009-2013
- 10. Further Sources
- General Sources
- Government Publications
- Other Sources
- Bisnode Sources
AbstractThe market for youth fashion, which is analysed in this report, is estimated to be worth £9.93bn at retail selling prices (rsp) at the end of 2008, an overall growth of 14.9% since 2004. Key Note defines this market as clothing, footwear and accessories for male and female consumers between the ages of 13 and 24. This is quite a long age span, but Key Note takes the view that the so-called `teenage' years have somewhat expanded, particularly at the lower end of the spectrum, since this report was last written in 2000 (when the market was defined as those aged 15 to 24).
Interest in fashion begins at a young age — and, as this report makes clear, boundaries are blurred between what is actually manufactured for teenagers, and similar fashions that are produced for so-called `tweenagers', i.e. younger consumers. At the older end of the spectrum, as well, it is perhaps difficult to ascertain a true demarcation between youth fashion and that targeted at older generations.
However, youth fashion does have its own identity, in the sense that it springs from the tastes and concerns of a highly communications-orientated generational group. Peer identity is strong, and the promulgation of cultural ideas and influences through the media and technology in the 21st century means that no teenager is left isolated in terms of understanding what his or her age group thinks and how it defines itself — and, most importantly, what it is necessary to buy in order to feel connected with other teenagers. Influences from music, sport and politics, to some extent, all feed into the designs and styles that clothing brands promote to young buyers, particularly young male consumers. Icons from the music and fashion worlds, as well as the celebrity circles, are highly influential as fashion role models, to young women in particular. Young people now have their own social network sites online, and a large majority regularly log on to these in order to connect with and chat to other users. The sense of a shared youth community is powerfully conveyed via sites such as Bebo and MySpace.
Young consumers who are still living at home often have quite high levels of personal disposable income to use to express themselves through their choice of consumer goods — not least through fashion. Thus, there is a thriving target consumer base here of highly impressionable and demanding young men and women.
Although the youth market for clothing remains a separate fashion segment in the sense of defining taste and responding to challenging fashion trends, it also sets the pace of change for older sectors, and affects designs in product ranges in the mainstream market. As already stated, the blurring between youth and adult fashion is often the result, but the youth market adds excitement to the whole clothing market.
Young women, in particular, are also benefiting from the growth in discount retailing. Retailers such as Primark and New Look operate on a fast turnover of cheap clothing, affording young women the opportunity to change their wardrobes with much greater frequency. This enables them to think about fashion much more in terms of self-expression than previous generations may have been able to. The accessories market, for instance, is extremely strong at the current time (November 2008). The idea of dressing up basic clothing with items such as belts, scarves and jewellery is particularly appealing to young people as a form of self-expression.
As with the clothing market in general, however, the teenage clothing market (especially the female sector) has been very susceptible to falling prices. Value growth has not been strong — and, in 2007/2008 in particular, some retailers have not shown their typical strong sales. Examples of this are Next (which is popular with young buyers but has experienced a slower rate of growth than previously) and French Connection. Other retailers, such as the Arcadia Group of fashion chains (Miss Selfridge, Topshop and Topman), continue to succeed in driving demand for challenging and trendy ideas in fashion and have been rewarded with relatively healthy growth rates considering the current economic slowdown.
The challenge for both retailers and brands is to align themselves with the emotional aspirations of young men and women. Many brands make this the cornerstone of their marketing and designs. Perhaps the most salient example of this is Diesel, which pioneers unusual marketing and sponsorship investment in the art and music world. Many brands also seek to make connections between technology and fashion. Some attempt to extend their product ranges into areas such as mobile telephones, or else to use mobile technology — particularly third-generation (3G) technology — as a channel for marketing and trend discussion. Others follow the trend set by the network providers such as Virgin and Orange, in sponsoring music events and thus aligning themselves even more closely with the fashion style of icons in the music world.
If the fashion industry is to continue growing, these strategies are likely to become even more sophisticated and cross-media. Advertising beyond traditional print and television media is likely to expand further — with increased and more effective use of the Internet, in particular, in order to tap into youth concerns and to affect choices.
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