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Fashion Advertising - UK

Published by: Mintel International Group Ltd.

Published: Nov. 1, 2007


Table of Contents


Issues in the Market


Definitions

Financial definitions

Abbreviations



Market in Brief

A booming market

M&S the biggest spender

Positive factors for fashion advertising...

But also some negatives...

What our research found

The future

Trading climate changes

Too many adverts may turn off consumers

Health trends - the shape of the future

Older consumers mean a new relationship

Fashion - behind the trend for the Internet



Internal Market Environment


Price environment changes for fashion

Figure 1: UK retail sales, clothing and footwear, value, volume and price, not seasonally adjusted, % change year-on-year, 1997-07

Non-price factors take over

Shift away from traditional media usage patterns

Fall in newspaper readership

Figure 2: Views on newspaper readership frequency, when asked "Do you read a national newspaper more often, less often or about the same as you did two years ago?", 2006

Internet ad spend takes off

Figure 3: Total advertising spend by media, % change 2005-06

Figure 4: Total advertising spend, 2006

Own-brand retailers dominate clothing sector

Figure 5: UK: Clothing market - channels of distribution, 2005



Broader Market Environment


Consumer incomes, saving and expenditure

Figure 6: UK real personal disposable income growth, consumer expenditure growth, bank base rate and savings ratio, actual and projected, 2002-12

Retail sales start to tail off

Figure 7: UK retail sales, value, % change quarter on same quarter the year before, 2002 Q2 to 2007 Q2

Older population creates communication challenge

Move upmarket may help advertisers

Employment trends better for women



Strengths and Weaknesses in the Market


Strengths

Rivalry between retailers

Focus moves away from price

Rise of online advertising

Increasingly upmarket audience

Weaknesses

Consumers become immune to heavy advertising

Pressure on margins to cut ad budgets

More older customers

Failure to target appropriate consumers



Market Size and Forecast

Key points

Market boomed in 2006/07

Figure 8: Fashion advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2011/12

Figure 9: Estimated fashion advertising spending, 2002/03-2006/07

What will affect this market in future?

Consumers become immune

Slowing disposable income growth

Retailers under pressure

Ageing audience

The rise and rise of the Internet

Health trends in the population

Alternative scenario

Figure 10: Fashion advertising expenditure, current prices, 2002/03-2011/12

Figure 11: Fashion advertising expenditure constant prices, 2002/03-2011/12

To advertise or not to advertise



The Market in Context

Key points

Fashion vs total advertising

Figure 12: Fashion advertising expenditure, year to end May 2003 to year to end May 2007

Media used by fashion advertisers

Figure 13: Fashion advertising expenditure, 2003-07

Figure 14: Fashion advertising expenditure, year to end May 2007/Total UK advertising expenditure, calendar year 2006

Who are the biggest fashion advertisers?

Figure 15: Top 20 fashion retail advertisers, by share of total fashion advertising market, 2003-07

Dolce & Gabbana heads the designer crowd

Figure 16: Top ten luxury and designer advertisers, by advertising expenditure, 2003-2007

Nike comes first in sports and casual brands

Figure 17: Top ten sports, casualwear and other brand advertisers, by advertising expenditure, 2003-07



Fashion Advertising Last Seen/Heard


Key findings

Retailer ads with the strongest impact

M&S’ ads seen by 75%

Figure 18: Fashion advertising seen/heard, last 12 months, August 2007

M&S may be missing its mark

John Lewis creates male awareness

TK Maxx spreads across the age groups

Figure 19: Fashion advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic groups, August 2007

Tesco spans age and class

Figure 20: Fashion advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic groups, August 2007

Matalan off-pitch on age

Figure 21: Fashion advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic groups, August 2007



Fashion Advertising Last Seen/Heard- Detailed Consumer Demographics

Figure 22: Fashion advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months by region, daily newspapers, Internet usage and supermarkets used, August 2007

Figure 23: Fashion advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by region, daily newspapers, Internet usage and supermarkets used, August 2007

Figure 24: Fashion advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by region, daily newspapers, Internet usage and supermarkets used, August 2007



Where Fashion Advertising Was Seen/Heard


M&S achieves best targeting with press

Figure 25: Where M&S advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic groups, August 2007

Debenhams is hit and miss on most media

Figure 26: Where Debenhams advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic groups, August 2007

Press more precise than TV for John Lewis

Figure 27: Where John Lewis advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic groups, August 2007

House of Fraser veers off-course with TV

Figure 28: Where House of Fraser advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2007

TK Maxx ads seen by teenagers and women

Figure 29: Where TK Maxx advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic groups, August 2007

TV most effective for Next

Figure 30: Where Next advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic groups, August 2007

TV also a hit with Tesco customers

Figure 31: Where Tesco advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic groups, August 2007

Kylie ads reach wrong audience

Figure 32: Where H&M advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2007

Asda achieves recognition with Coleen

Figure 33: Where Asda advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic groups, August 2007

TV makes less impact on Gap

Figure 34: Where Gap advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic groups, August 2007

Teenagers reached by Matalan's TV ads

Figure 35: Where Matalan advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic groups, August 2007

Topshop consumers confused

Figure 36: Where Topshop advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic groups, August 2007



Where Fashion Advertising Was Seen/Heard - Detailed Consumer Demographics

M&S

Figure 37: Where M&S advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by region, daily newspapers, Internet usage, supermarket used, August 2007

Debenhams

Figure 38: Where Debenhams advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by region, daily newspapers, Internet usage and supermarkets used, August 2007

John Lewis

Figure 39: Where John Lewis advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by region, daily newspapers, Internet usage and supermarkets used, August 2007

House of Fraser/John Lewis

Figure 40: Where House of Fraser and John Lewis advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by region, daily newspapers, Internet usage and supermarkets used, August 2007

TK Maxx/H&M

Figure 41: Where TK Maxx and H&M advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by region, daily newspapers, Internet usage and supermarkets used, August 2007

Next

Figure 42: Where Next advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by region, daily newspapers, Internet usage and supermarkets used, August 2007

Tesco

Figure 43: Where Tesco advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by region, daily newspapers, Internet usage and supermarkets used, August 2007

Asda

Figure 44: Where Asda advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by region, daily newspapers, Internet usage and supermarkets used, August 2007

Gap/Topshop

Figure 45: Where Gap and Topshop advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by region, daily newspapers, Internet usage and supermarkets used, August 2007

Matalan

Figure 46: Where Matalan advertising seen/heard in the last 12 months, by region, daily newspapers, Internet usage and supermarkets used, August 2007



Retail Competitor Analysis

Key Points

The competitive line-up

Figure 134: Advertising audiences for major fashion retailers, positioned by age and socio-economic status, August 2007

Figure 135: Shopper bases for major fashion retailers, positioned by age and socio-economic status, August 2007

What the comparisons show

Figure 136: Major fashion retail advertisers' competitive position, 2007

Figure 137: Secondary fashion retail advertisers' competitive position, 2007

Minor advertisers

Figure 138: Total Advertising spend, by advertiser and media, Year to end May 2007



Retail Profiles

Marks & Spencer

Advertising strategy

Figure 139: Marks & Spencer, advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Figure 140: Marks & Spencer, fashion advertising expenditure, June 2006 to May 2007

Advertising impact

Figure 141: Marks & Spencer, fashion advertising audience versus its shoppers, August 2007

Recent key campaigns

Agencies used

Outlook

Debenhams

Advertising spending

Figure 142: Debenhams, fashion advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Figure 143: Debenhams, fashion advertising expenditure, June 2006-May 2007

Advertising impact

Figure 144: Debenhams, fashion advertising audience versus its shoppers, August 2007

Recent key campaigns

Agencies used

Outlook

John Lewis

Advertising strategy

Figure 145: John Lewis, fashion advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Figure 146: John Lewis, fashion advertising expenditure, June 2006-May 2007

Advertising impact

Figure 147: John Lewis, advertising audience versus its shoppers, August 2007

Agencies used

Analysis and outlook

House of Fraser

Advertising spending

Figure 148: House of Fraser, fashion advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Figure 149: House of Fraser, advertising expenditure, June 2006-May 2007

Advertising impact

Figure 150: House of Fraser, advertising audience versus its shoppers, August 2007

Recent key campaigns

Analysis and outlook

TK Maxx

Advertising spending

Figure 151: TK Maxx, fashion advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Figure 152: TK Maxx, advertising expenditure, June 2006-May 2007

Advertising impact

Recent key campaigns

Figure 153: TK Maxx, advertising audience versus its shoppers, August 2007

Agencies used

Analysis and outlook

Next

Advertising spending

Figure 154: Next, fashion advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Figure 155: Next, fashion advertising expenditure, June 2006-May 2007

Advertising impact

Figure 156: Next, fashion advertising audience versus its shoppers, August 2007

Recent key campaigns

Agencies used

Analysis and outlook

Tesco

Advertising spending

Figure 157: Tesco, fashion advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Figure 158: Tesco, fashion advertising expenditure, June 2006-May 2007

Advertising impact

Figure 159: Tesco, fashion advertising audience versus its shoppers, August 2007

Recent key campaigns

Agencies used

Analysis and outlook

Bhs

Advertising spend

Figure 160: Bhs, fashion advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Advertising impact

Figure 161: Bhs, fashion advertising audience versus shoppers, August 2007

Key recent campaigns

Analysis and outlook

H&M

Advertising spending

Figure 162: H&M, fashion advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Figure 163: H&M, advertising expenditure, June 2006-May 2007

Advertising impact

Figure 164: H&M, fashion advertising audience versus its shoppers, August 2007

Recent key campaigns

Agencies used

Asda

Advertising spending

Figure 165: Asda, fashion advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Advertising impact

Figure 166: Asda, fashion advertising audience versus its shoppers, August 2007

Recent key campaigns

Agencies used

Analysis and outlook

Non-specialist retailers

Harrods

Figure 167: Harrods, advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Figure 168: Harrods, advertising expenditure, June 2006 to May 2007

Latest key campaigns

Figure 169: Harrods, recent ad campaigns, 2006-07

Analysis and outlook

Bonmarché

Advertising spending

Figure 170: Bonmarché, advertising expenditure 2002/03-2006/07

Latest key campaigns

Figure 171: Bonmarché, recent ad campaign, 2007

Analysis and outlook

TJ Hughes

Advertising spending

Figure 172: TJ Hughes, advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Figure 173: TJ Hughes, advertising expenditure, June 2006-May 2007

Latest key campaigns

Figure 174: TJ Hughes, recent ad campaigns, 2006-07

Analysis and outlook

JJB Sports

Advertising spending

Figure 175: JJB Sports, advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Latest key campaigns

Figure 176: JJB Sports, recent ad campaigns, 2006-07

Analysis and outlook

Gap

Advertising spending

Figure 177: Gap, advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Advertising impact

Figure 178: Gap, advertising audience versus its shoppers, August 2007

Latest key campaigns

Figure 179: Gap, recent ad campaigns, 2006-07

Analysis and outlook

Matalan

Advertising spending

Figure 180: Matalan, advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Advertising impact

Figure 181: Matalan, advertising audience versus its shoppers, August 2007

Latest key campaigns

Figure 182: Matalan, latest ad campaigns, 2006-07

Analysis and outlook

Evans

Advertising spending

Figure 183: Evans, advertising expenditure, 2002/07-2006/07

Advertising impact

Figure 184: Evans, fashion advertising audience versus its shoppers, August 2007

Latest key campaigns

Figure 185: Evans, latest ad campaigns, 2006-07

Analysis and outlook

Selfridges

Advertising spending

Figure 186: Selfridges, advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Figure 187: Selfridges, advertising expenditure, June 2006 to May 2007

Latest key campaigns

Figure 188: Selfridges, recent ad campaigns, 2006-07

Analysis and outlook

River Island

Advertising spending

Figure 189: River island, advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Advertising impact

Figure 190: River Island, fashion advertising audience versus its shoppers, August 2007

Latest key campaigns

Figure 191: River Island, recent ad campaigns, 2006-07

Analysis and outlook

Dorothy Perkins

Advertising spending

Figure 192: Dorothy Perkins, advertising expenditure, 2002/03-2006/07

Figure 193: Dorothy Perkins, advertising expenditure, June 2006-May 2007

Advertising impact

Figure 194: Dorothy Perkins, fashion advertising audience versus shoppers, August 2007

Figure 195: Dorothy Perkins, recent ad campaigns, 2006-07

Primark



Market Factors - Appendix

Figure 196: UK population by age, 2002-07 and 2012

Figure 197: UK adult population 15+ by socio-economic group, 2002-07 and 2012

Figure 198: UK male and female employment, 2002-07 and 2012

Abstract

Fashion Advertising spending has risen dramatically as retailers have tried to move their positioning away from the price-driven competition of the past few years and become more upmarket and aspirational. Advertising spending by the top ten retailers has doubled in the past four years to £114 million.

Faced with a number of issues ranging from a potential slowdown in consumer spending to an ageing fashion audience and rapidly changing media usage patterns, retailers and brands are having to innovate in their advertising in order to survive.

The key themes this report sets out to address are:

  • How big is the market and what are the driving forces behind its growth?
  • What are the potential problems that might slow growth in the future?
  • Which advertisers are most successful in reaching their audiences and what strategies do they use?
  • What do consumers think about fashion advertising they see? Does it inspire them and do they enjoy seeing and hearing it?
  • Which consumers respond the most?
  • What might the impact of the Internet be on fashion advertising?


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