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Luxury Goods Retailing - Global

Published by: Mintel International Group Ltd.

Published: Jul. 1, 2006



Table of Contents


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

Global luxury goods market worth €70 billion in 2005

Retail value closer to €100 billion

Tightening control of distribution

LVMH is the leading luxury goods company

Europe is the largest luxury goods market

Growth in US and Asia-Pacific continues to drive market

Explosive growth in China

Fashion and leather category the largest

Investors increasingly attracted to luxury market

Strong growth forecast for luxury market




THE GLOBAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET

REPORT SCOPE

TERMS AND DEFINITIONS


Luxury goods - A definition

Exchange rates


Figure 1: US Dollar to Euro exchange rates, 2001-05


Regions

Product categories


TECHNICAL NOTES



Financial definitions


Other abbreviations


GLOBAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET SIZE



Figure 2: Estimated global luxury goods market size and major players' turnover, 2004-05


Figure 3: Global luxury goods market: Percentage of leading operators by domicile, 2005


Regional breakdown



Figure 4: Global luxury goods market: Estimated value breakdown by region, 2005


Figure 5: Global luxury goods market: Percentage breakdown, by region, 2005


Europe

North America

Japan

China

Other markets


Product breakdown


Figure 6: Global luxury goods market: Estimated product breakdown, 2005


Figure 7: Global luxury goods market: Estimated breakdown by major product category, 2005


Perfumes and cosmetics


Targeting younger consumers

Male market - a growth area

Anti-ageing products


Fashion and leather goods


Handbags driving the market

Move to more muted tones

Size matters

Man-bags

No-logo


Watches and jewellery


Watch trends

Jewellery trends

The ’Other Products’ category



COUNTERFEITING


Counterfeit product market size

Counterfeit luxury goods

Counterfeit luxury goods buyers

Brand control - battling against the counterfeiters

Internet aiding the counterfeiting business?

LVMH targets the merchants


FAST FASHION - IMITATION IS THE SINCEREST FORM OF FLATTERY?

CORPORATE ACTIVITY


Major merger & acquisitions 2004, 2005 and first half of 2006


OUTLOOK AND FORECASTS


Outlook


Will 2006 see a slowdown?

Trends and market drivers

Selected current trading data

Macro-economic data

Other data


Forecasts


Figure 8: Global luxury goods market: Forecast, 2006-07 and 2010





THE LUXURY GOODS MARKET - DEMAND DRIVERS AND THE ECONOMIC CYCLE

Introduction

GDP growth

Slower growth in larger luxury goods markets


Slowdown forecast for 2006 and 2007


Figure 9: Selected regional and national real GDP growth rates and forecasts, 2003-07


Figure 10: Key luxury goods markets’ real GDP growth, 2004 and 2005


Stockmarket fluctuations impact market growth

Exchange rate movements also influence market


Figure 11: Relative performance of Yen against US$ and Euro, 2001-05


The Yuan and the US Dollar

Japanese consumers’ global influence waning?

Recovery in Japan continues in 2005


Figure 12: Japanese tourist departures, 1990-2007


Chinese consumers becoming more important to luxury goods market?


High Net Worth Individuals (HNWIs)


HNWIs background

More rich than ever before...

...and they are getting richer


Figure 13: World: High Net Worth Individuals, 2001-05


Increase in Asia-Pacific and North American wealth driving market


Figure 14: Number of High Net Worth Individuals by region, 2001-05


North America recovery continues in 2004


Figure 15: Net worth of HNWIs, 2001-05


87 million millionaires

Wealth forecast to 2010


Figure 16: Wealth forecast - HNWI average annual growth in financial wealth by region, 2005-10





CHANNELS OF DISTRIBUTION

INTRODUCTION


Control distribution and you control the brand

Channel structure


BRAND BOUTIQUES


Background


Directly-operated vs franchised?

DOS gaining ground

Status quo


Figure 17: Luxury brands: Company-owned stores


Jewellery

Watches

Emerging markets


Market development/trends


Stores communicate brand

Location

Demand for thrills

Interaction with products

The e-impact


Figure 18: Luxury brands: Websites, 2006


Too accessible?

No touching

Boring functionality

Taking control


Outlook


DOS trend continues

Branded stores head East

And revamp where established

But at what cost?

No avoiding the web



LICENSING


What is a licence?

The evolution of licensing


Figure 19: The evolution of licensing


Return to control - different approaches


1) Pierre Cardin - over-extending the brand


Figure 20: Pierre Cardin - over-extending the brand


2) Gucci - taking back control


Figure 21: Gucci - taking back control


3) Burberry - striking a balance


Figure 22: Burberry - striking a balance


4) LVMH - keeping it in-house


Figure 23: LVMH - keeping it in-house



Parallel imports


Tesco vs Levi's case

Louis Vuitton rations shoppers


The pros and cons of licensing


Figure 24: Pros and cons of licensing


Licensing versus integrated distribution

Specialist manufacturing and distribution


Perfumes and cosmetics

Eyewear


Figure 25: Eyewear licensed brands, 2006



The future of licensing


CONCESSIONS


Background


Definition

A mutually beneficial arrangement

Department to destination store

How to stand out?


Market developments/factors


Identity crisis?

Showcasing luxury

Threat from developing brands

Brand control

Safe entry vehicle


Outlook


The march of the brand boutique continues

...but concessions remain complementary

Potential still remains

Boost from accessories?



THE TAX-FREE/DUTY-FREE MARKET


The global luxury goods tax-free retail market size


Regional breakdown


Figure 26: Global duty-free sales of luxury goods, breakdown by region, 2004


Product categories


Figure 27: Global duty-free sales of luxury goods, breakdown by major product category, 2004


Growing market

Airport retailing increasing its dominance


Duty-free shopping


History of duty-free

Tax-free retailing

Leading tax-free luxury goods retailers

Outlook





LUXURY GOODS PRODUCT MARKETS

INTRODUCTION


Background

Product market sizes


Figure 28: Global luxury goods market: Estimated product breakdown, 2005



LEATHER GOODS AND ACCESSORIES


Background


’It’ Bags

Entry-level products

Move towards even greater exclusivity

Brand licensing


Market size and trends


Figure 29: Global leather goods and accessories market: Estimated market shares, 2005


Leading players


LVMH

Coach

Gucci Group

Prada

Hermès

Richemont


Product trends


Handbags continue to drive category

Re-invention and updated classics

Shape and colour trends

Big bags

Man-bags

No logo?

Counterfeiting


Outlook


Accessible accessories?

Über Luxury segment growing

Customisation



READY-TO-WEAR AND FOOTWEAR


Background


History

Definitions

Are brands the real fashion victims?


Market size and trends


Figure 30: Global ready-to-wear and footwear market: Estimated market shares, 2005


Leading players



Figure 31: Global ready-to-wear and footwear market, brand stables and retail presence, 2005


Polo Ralph Lauren


Figure 32: Polo Ralph Lauren: Turnover, by channel and region, 2006


Tommy Hilfiger


Figure 33: Tommy Hilfiger: Turnover, by channel, 2004/05 and to end-2005


Figure 34: Tommy Hilfiger: Brands, 2006


Max Mara


Figure 35: Max Mara: Brands, 2006


Armani


Figure 36: Armani: Wholesale turnover, by region and label, 2004


Figure 37: Armani: Brands, 2006


Figure 38: Armani Group: Direct retail network, as at end-December 2005


Chanel

Ermenegildo Zegna


Figure 39: Ermenegildo Zegna: Brands, 2006


Escada


Figure 40: Escada brand sales, by region and segment, 2004/05



Product trends

Industry developments


Luxury for the masses

What is luxury?

The industry strikes back?

Faster

Better

(In)Accessible

Customised

The creative carousel


Outlook


'Fast fashion'

Brand 'stretching'



PERFUMES AND COSMETICS


Background


History


Market size and trends


Market structure

Control over the distribution chain

Market size

Market shares


Figure 41: Global luxury goods market: Perfume & cosmetics sector, estimated market shares, 2005



Leading players



Figure 42: Leading luxury goods perfume and cosmetics brands, 2006


Estée Lauder

Shiseido

L'Oréal (Luxury Products Division)

YSL Beauté


Product trends


Celebrity fragrances

Targeting younger consumers

Male market - a growth area

Anti-ageing products


Outlook


Product innovation

Opportunities in emerging markets

Expanding niche customer markets



LUXURY WATCHES AND JEWELLERY MARKET


Background


History

Two closely-related markets


Market size and trends


Figure 43: Leading luxury jewellery and watch brands, 2003 and 2005


Watches


Leading players


Figure 44: Luxury watchmakers acquisitions


Rolex

Swatch Group

Other brands


Figure 45: Other luxury watch brands


Regional trends


Figure 46: Distribution of Swiss watches, by region, 2004-05


Figure 47: Global distribution of Swiss watches, by major regions, 2005


Figure 48: LVMH watches and jewellery division, sales by region, 2005


Product trends


Jewellery


Leading players


Figure 49: Re-invention and reinvigoration of high-end jewellers


Product trends


Outlook


China's growing affluence targeted

Product innovation

Differentiation





MAJOR COMPANY PROFILES

BURBERRY


Background


Repositioning


Financial data


Five-year summary


Figure 50: Burberry Group: Financial data, 2001/02-2005/06


Figure 51: Burberry Group: Turnover by regional market, 2001/02-2005/06


Full year 2005/06


Outlets


Retail expansion


Figure 52: Burberry Group: Outlet data, 2002-06


Presence by country


Figure 53: Burberry Group: Outlets by region, 2002 and 2006


Impact of company owned stores

Japan


Channels of distribution


Figure 54: Burberry Group: Turnover by channel, 2001/02-2005/06


Products



Figure 55: Burberry Group: Turnover by product category, 2005/06


Clothing


Figure 56: Burberry Group: Fashion brands


Clothing icons

Accessories

The 'It' bag category

Logo

Footwear

Home

Fragrances


Advertising

Online presence


Figure 57: Burberry Group: Websites, April 2006


Outlook


GUCCI GROUP


Background


Turnaround

PPR ownership


Figure 58: Gucci Group: Brands



Group financial data


Figure 59: Gucci Group: Financial data, 2001/02-2005


Figure 60: Gucci Group: Turnover by brand, 2001/02-2005


Figure 61: Gucci Group: Turnover by region, 2003-05


Group outlets


Figure 62: Gucci Group: Outlet data by brand, 2001-05


Figure 63: Gucci Group: Outlet data by country, 2001-05


Products


Figure 64: Gucci Group: Group turnover by product category, 2002/03 and 2005


Major brand divisions


Gucci


Figure 65: Gucci division: Sales by geographic location, 2005


Figure 66: Gucci division: Sales by product category, 2003-05


Yves Saint Laurent


Figure 67: Yves Saint Laurent: Turnover by product group, 2005


YSL Beauté

Bottega Veneta


Figure 68: Bottega Veneta: Geographical breakdown of sales, 2005


Other operations

Emerging brands


Online and mail order


Figure 69: Gucci Group: Group websites, 2006


Outlook


LVMH HOLDING


Background


Louis Vuitton + Möet Hennessy = LVMH

Arnault teams up with Guinness to take control

LVMH grows through acquisition


Group structure



Figure 70: Christian Dior/LVMH ownership structure, 2005


Christian Dior Couture

Financial and outlet data


Figure 71: Christian Dior Couture: Financial data, 2001-05


Figure 72: Christian Dior Couture: Revenue by business sector, 2001-05


Figure 73: Christian Dior Couture: Retail revenue by geographical location, 2001-05


Products/design strategy


LVMH brand portfolio


Figure 74: LVMH: Owned brands, by division, as at 31 December 2005


Group financial data


Figure 75: LVMH: Group financial data, 2001-05


Figure 76: LVMH: Group sales, by region, 2005


Figure 77: LVMH: Group outlet data, by division and region, 2001-05


Review by division

Fashion and leather goods



Figure 78: LVMH: Fashion & leather goods division, financial and outlet data, 2001-05


Figure 79: LVMH: Fashion & leather goods division's sales breakdown, by region, 2001 and 2005


Louis Vuitton


Figure 80: LVMH: Louis Vuitton, Sales growth and outlet data, 2001-05


Fendi


Figure 81: LVMH: Fendi outlets, 2001-05


Berluti

Kenzo

Givenchy

Marc Jacobs

StefanoBi

Emilio Pucci

Thomas Pink

Donna Karan

eLuxury.com


Perfumes and cosmetics



Figure 82: LVMH: Perfumes and cosmetics division, financial and outlet data, 2001-05


Figure 83: LVMH: Perfumes and cosmetics division sales, by region, 2001 and 2005


Parfums Christian Dior

Guerlain SA

Parfums Givenchy

Kenzo Parfums

Laflachère

BeneFit Cosmetics

Fresh

Make Up For Ever

Acqua di Parma

Perfumes Loewe


Watches and jewellery



Figure 84: LVMH: Watches and jewellery division, financial and outlet data, 2001-05


Figure 85: LVMH: Watches and jewellery division sales, by region, 2001 and 2005


TAG Heuer

Zenith International

Benedom - Dior Watches

Fred Joaillier

OMAS

Chaumet International

De Beers LV


E-commerce

Outlook


RICHEMONT


Background

Financial data


Richemont raises its performance


Figure 86: Richemont Group: Financial performance, 2001/02-2005/06


Europe remains the group's key market


Figure 87: Richemont: Sales by region, 2005/06



Outlets


Figure 88: Richemont Group: Number of outlets, 2001-05


Products


Figure 89: Richemont: Sales by product category, 2005/06


Review by business segment


Figure 90: Richemont: Turnover by business segment, 2005/06


Jewellery



Figure 91: Jewellery division: Financial performance, 2001/02-2005/06


Cartier

Van Cleef & Arpels


Specialist watchmakers



Figure 92: Specialist watchmakers division: Financial performance, 2001/02-2005/06


Jaeger-LeCoultre

Piaget

Baume & Mercier

IWC

Vacheron Constantin

A Lange & Söhne

Officine Panerai


Writing instrument manufacturers



Figure 93: Writing instrument manufacturers: Financial performance, 2001/02-2005/06


Montblanc

Montegrappa


Leather and accessories



Figure 94: Leather and accessories: Financial performance, 2001/02-2005/06


Alfred Dunhill

Lancel

Other businesses


Figure 95: Other businesses: Financial performance, 2002/03-2005/06


Chloé

Shanghai Tang

James Purdey & Sons


Outlook


HERMÈS


Background

Financial data


Robust performance in 2005


Figure 96: Hermès: Financial data, 2001-05


Figure 97: Hermès: Sales by major product category, 2002-05


2006 Q1 sales growth in the double-digits


Figure 98: Hermès: Sales by region, 1st Quarter 2006



Outlets


Figure 99: Hermès: Stores by region, April 2006


Products


Figure 100: Hermès: Product breakdown, Q1 2006


Outlook


PRADA


Background

Group financial data


Figure 101: Prada Holding NV: Financial data, 2002/03-2005/06


Outlets

Products

Outlook


Business restructuring

Church's stake to be bought back?

Prada's flotation plans



TIFFANY & CO


Background

Financial data


Figure 102: Tiffany & Co: Financial data, 2001/02-2005/06


Figure 103: Tiffany & Co: Retail turnover by region, 2001/02-2005/06


Outlets


Figure 104: Tiffany & Co: Outlet data, 2002-06


Products

Outlook




APPENDIX: RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

Abstract

According to Mintel’s definition, based on the leading luxury goods companies, the global luxury goods market was worth an estimated €70.0 billion (US$87.5 billion) in 2005, up 9.2% on 2004. This increase comes despite a further strengthening of the Euro against the dollar during 2005.

The main focus of development in terms of distribution is retail, with many of the leading luxury companies looking to dramatically expand their own store networks, whilst cutting back on franchise and (market) licensing deals. The main attractions of retail for the leading luxury companies are higher margins and greater control of how, when and where their products are sold. Companies appear to be overcoming previous concerns with regard to brand control and counterfeiting as they plunge headlong into the Chinese marketplace. The opportunity that China represents is too great for the leading luxury players to ignore, with a rapidly growing economy that is increasing consumer wealth and creating literally millions of new millionaires.

While Mintel anticipates that the strong growth experienced in the first quarter of 2006 will slow slightly during the rest of the year, a strong growth of 11% is forecasted for 2006. Mintel expects growth to slow in 2007, but looking at the longer-term trend, the market will grow by approximately a third in the period to 2010.

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