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Designerwear Retailing - UKPublished by: Mintel International Group Ltd. Published: Nov. 1, 2005 - 145 Pages Table of ContentsIntroduction and Abbreviations Definitions Research methodology Consumer research ACORN Other research Abbreviations Executive Summary Market performance Slowdown in retail sales, but still growth International perspective and commercial reality More UK consumers have increased spending than have been cutting back Market factors Continuing growth in PDI means still money to spend More in the fashion-conscious early twenties Increased tourism is a key opportunity for UK retailers Accessories a key driver of interest and sales Designers trading up to combat counterfeiting and similar looks on the high street The anti-copying movement and ‘flash collections’ Few admit being influenced by advertising Influence of celebrities waning Barriers to selling more Majority view designer clothing as over-priced A need to add value through differentiation Opportunities for selling more Designer stores need to be warm and welcoming Service at designer retailers doesn’t stand out from rest of high street Retail structure and challenges/opportunities Department stores dominate Independents still strong Opportunity with older consumers Welcome to my world The Internet is a big growth opportunity The importance of the designers themselves Does a designer label need a high profile designer at the helm? Calvin Klein remains in the lead The future Trading-up by designers set to continue Big potential from new breed of tourists Internet increasingly important Retail Sales All retail sales Figure 1: All retail sales, at current and constant 2000 prices, 2000-05 Retail sales through clothing specialists Figure 2: Sales through clothing retailers, at current and constant 2000 prices, 2000-05 Sales through non-specialist non-food retailers Figure 3: Sales through non-specialist, non-food retailers, at current and constant 2000 prices, 2000-05 Sales of designer clothing Figure 4: Consumer spending on women’s and men’s designerwear, 2000-05 Sector Structure Main channels of distribution Pyramid shape industry The trend is upwards Haute couture Savile Row The major groups Figure 5: Corporate ownership of designer brands, 2005 Retail outlets of the designer brands Figure 6: Designers standalone stores in the UK, 2005 Market Factors PDI and consumer expenditure Figure 7: PDI and consumer expenditure at constant prices and savings ratio, 2000-10 Employment Figure 8: Structure of the UK working population, by male and female employment, 2000-10 Population trends Figure 9: Total UK population, by age group, 2000-10 Figure 10: UK adult population (aged 15+), by socio-economic group, 2000-10 Counterfeiting and parallel trading And then there are ‘similar looks’ Licensing Tourism The Consumer Key consumer findings Designer labels purchased Figure 11: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, August 2003 and 2005 Figure 12: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2005 Figure 13: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2005 Sources of purchase for designer label clothing Figure 14: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, August 2003 and 2005 Figure 15: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2003 and 2005 Sources of purchase by designer labels bought in last 12 months Figure 16: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, August 2003 and 2005 The Consumer - Detailed Consumer Demographics Figure 17: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, August 2005 Figure 18: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, August 2005 Figure 19: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by region and ACORN category, August 2005 Figure 20: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by region and ACORN category, August 2005 Figure 21: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by media, commercial TV viewing and source of regular grocery shopping, August 2005 Figure 22: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by media, commercial TV viewing and source of regular grocery shopping, August 2005 Figure 23: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, August 2005 Figure 24: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by region and ACORN category, August 2005 Figure 25: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by media, commercial TV viewing and source of regular grocery shopping, August 2005 Retailer Market Shares Women’s designer clothing Figure 69: Retail market shares of women’s designerwear market, by outlet type, 2001, 2003 and 2005 Men’s designer clothing Figure 70: Retail market shares of men’s designerwear market, by outlet type, 2001, 2003 and 2005 Retailer Profiles The designers Aeffe Fashion Group Figure 71: Aeffe Fashion Group, total sales split, by designer brand, 2004 Gucci Group Figure 72: Gucci division, split of total sales, by product category, 2004 LVMH Holding Figure 73: LVMH, split of total sales, by geographic region, 2004 Marzotto Figure 74: Marzotto, split of clothing sales, by geographic area, 2004 Prada Group Richemont Giorgio Armani Figure 75: Giorgio Armani, wholesale turnover, by brand, 2003 Burberry Figure 76: Burberry, split of sales, by product category, 2005 Calvin Klein Dolce & Gabbana Paul Smith Polo Ralph Lauren Tommy Hilfiger Versace Vivienne Westwood Other/smaller designers Betty Jackson Caroline Charles Ghost Jasper Conran John Rocha Julien Macdonald Lanvin Marni Matthew Williamson Nicole Farhi Department stores Debenhams Figure 77: Debenhams: UK and Ireland, number of stores, 2001-05 Figure 78: Debenhams: UK and Ireland, planned store opening programme, spring 2006-autumn 2007 Figure 79: Designers who create ranges for Designers at Debenhams, 2005 Figure 80: Debenhams: Group financial performance, 2000-04 House of Fraser Store portfolio Figure 81: House of Fraser, number of stores, 2001-05 Figure 82: House of Fraser, planned store opening programme, 2005-08 Figure 83: House of Fraser, financial performance, 2001-05 Harrods Figure 84: Harrods Ltd, financial performance, 2000-04 Harvey Nichols Liberty Figure 85: Liberty plc, financial performance, 2000-04 Selfridges Figure 86: Selfridges, financial performance, 2000-04 Other department stores Fenwick Hoopers Independents Discount/value retailers TK Maxx Figure 87: TK Maxx, financial performance, 2001-05 Factory outlet centres (FOCs) Mail order/Internet Net-a-porter yoox.com and haburi.com e-luxury.com Oki-ni.com Ebay ASOS (as seen on screen) Trade Perspective The difference between designer and luxury clothing brands Differing views on 2004 sales performance 2005 so far, and views on tourism Key factors influencing designer sales Negative influences - Chav culture Different consumers shop different retail channels The Internet - opportunity or threat? Trend to tailoring Accessories have been a key driver of the market The most influential designers Counterfeiting and parallel trading - more under control? The effect of Designers at Debenhams and multiples’ high fashion style Designer prices - too high or good value for money? Designer clothing sector - strategies for success Designer clothing sector - future prospects The Future Factors most likely to influence the market Economy Fashion High street impact Price and value for money Tourism Counterfeiting Celebrities Who will be the winners/losers? Department stores Independents International designer boutiques Discounters/factory outlet centres The Internet Recommendations for retailers to maximise their potential Make it ‘worth it’ Get the message across Add value to the whole shopping experience Respond faster Make it easier Forecast Growth in total sales predicted Figure 88: Forecast of the UK designerwear market, at current and constant 2005 prices, 2005-10 Gains from increasing consumer awareness Bright future for the Internet Factors used in the forecast AbstractAbout the marketSince the last Mintel report on this topic in 2003, more UK consumers have increased their spending on designer clothing than have been cutting back, however people feel such goods tend to be over priced for their value thus sending them to pursue comparable substitutes. This trend has attributed to the rise in Demi-Couture as a compromise between the custom couture and mainline ready-to-wear clothing. Designer clothing will always be expensive but keeping the focus on the designer prestige, quality of products and differentiating style will continue to keep the attention of the most prominent target market, those in the pre-no family life stage. Designers have used advertising and celebrities to encourage sales without much success. Where advertisements raise brand awareness they are conversely sending the consumers to high street stores that offer reasonable alternatives to these top end products. In order to significantly increase sales, designers will have to use the Internet as their tool and also increase their appeal through better customer service and a more comfortable atmosphere in stores. Get Full Details About This Report >> |
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