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Designerwear Retailing - UK

Published by: Mintel International Group Ltd.

Published: Nov. 1, 2005 - 145 Pages


Table of Contents


Introduction and Abbreviations

Definitions

Research methodology

Consumer research

ACORN

Other research

Abbreviations



Executive Summary

Market performance

Slowdown in retail sales, but still growth

International perspective and commercial reality

More UK consumers have increased spending than have been cutting back

Market factors

Continuing growth in PDI means still money to spend

More in the fashion-conscious early twenties

Increased tourism is a key opportunity for UK retailers

Accessories a key driver of interest and sales

Designers trading up to combat counterfeiting and similar looks on the high street

The anti-copying movement and ‘flash collections’

Few admit being influenced by advertising

Influence of celebrities waning

Barriers to selling more

Majority view designer clothing as over-priced

A need to add value through differentiation

Opportunities for selling more

Designer stores need to be warm and welcoming

Service at designer retailers doesn’t stand out from rest of high street

Retail structure and challenges/opportunities

Department stores dominate

Independents still strong

Opportunity with older consumers

Welcome to my world

The Internet is a big growth opportunity

The importance of the designers themselves

Does a designer label need a high profile designer at the helm?

Calvin Klein remains in the lead

The future

Trading-up by designers set to continue

Big potential from new breed of tourists

Internet increasingly important



Retail Sales

All retail sales

Figure 1: All retail sales, at current and constant 2000 prices, 2000-05

Retail sales through clothing specialists

Figure 2: Sales through clothing retailers, at current and constant 2000 prices, 2000-05

Sales through non-specialist non-food retailers

Figure 3: Sales through non-specialist, non-food retailers, at current and constant 2000 prices, 2000-05

Sales of designer clothing

Figure 4: Consumer spending on women’s and men’s designerwear, 2000-05



Sector Structure

Main channels of distribution

Pyramid shape industry

The trend is upwards

Haute couture

Savile Row

The major groups

Figure 5: Corporate ownership of designer brands, 2005

Retail outlets of the designer brands

Figure 6: Designers standalone stores in the UK, 2005



Market Factors

PDI and consumer expenditure

Figure 7: PDI and consumer expenditure at constant prices and savings ratio, 2000-10

Employment

Figure 8: Structure of the UK working population, by male and female employment, 2000-10

Population trends

Figure 9: Total UK population, by age group, 2000-10

Figure 10: UK adult population (aged 15+), by socio-economic group, 2000-10

Counterfeiting and parallel trading

And then there are ‘similar looks’

Licensing

Tourism



The Consumer

Key consumer findings

Designer labels purchased

Figure 11: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, August 2003 and 2005

Figure 12: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2005

Figure 13: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2005

Sources of purchase for designer label clothing

Figure 14: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, August 2003 and 2005

Figure 15: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2003 and 2005

Sources of purchase by designer labels bought in last 12 months

Figure 16: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, August 2003 and 2005



The Consumer - Detailed Consumer Demographics

Figure 17: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, August 2005

Figure 18: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, August 2005

Figure 19: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by region and ACORN category, August 2005

Figure 20: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by region and ACORN category, August 2005

Figure 21: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by media, commercial TV viewing and source of regular grocery shopping, August 2005

Figure 22: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by media, commercial TV viewing and source of regular grocery shopping, August 2005

Figure 23: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, August 2005

Figure 24: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by region and ACORN category, August 2005

Figure 25: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by media, commercial TV viewing and source of regular grocery shopping, August 2005



Retailer Market Shares

Women’s designer clothing

Figure 69: Retail market shares of women’s designerwear market, by outlet type, 2001, 2003 and 2005

Men’s designer clothing

Figure 70: Retail market shares of men’s designerwear market, by outlet type, 2001, 2003 and 2005



Retailer Profiles

The designers

Aeffe Fashion Group

Figure 71: Aeffe Fashion Group, total sales split, by designer brand, 2004

Gucci Group

Figure 72: Gucci division, split of total sales, by product category, 2004

LVMH Holding

Figure 73: LVMH, split of total sales, by geographic region, 2004

Marzotto

Figure 74: Marzotto, split of clothing sales, by geographic area, 2004

Prada Group

Richemont

Giorgio Armani

Figure 75: Giorgio Armani, wholesale turnover, by brand, 2003

Burberry

Figure 76: Burberry, split of sales, by product category, 2005

Calvin Klein

Dolce & Gabbana

Paul Smith

Polo Ralph Lauren

Tommy Hilfiger

Versace

Vivienne Westwood

Other/smaller designers

Betty Jackson

Caroline Charles

Ghost

Jasper Conran

John Rocha

Julien Macdonald

Lanvin

Marni

Matthew Williamson

Nicole Farhi

Department stores

Debenhams

Figure 77: Debenhams: UK and Ireland, number of stores, 2001-05

Figure 78: Debenhams: UK and Ireland, planned store opening programme, spring 2006-autumn 2007

Figure 79: Designers who create ranges for Designers at Debenhams, 2005

Figure 80: Debenhams: Group financial performance, 2000-04

House of Fraser

Store portfolio

Figure 81: House of Fraser, number of stores, 2001-05

Figure 82: House of Fraser, planned store opening programme, 2005-08

Figure 83: House of Fraser, financial performance, 2001-05

Harrods

Figure 84: Harrods Ltd, financial performance, 2000-04

Harvey Nichols

Liberty

Figure 85: Liberty plc, financial performance, 2000-04

Selfridges

Figure 86: Selfridges, financial performance, 2000-04

Other department stores

Fenwick

Hoopers

Independents

Discount/value retailers

TK Maxx

Figure 87: TK Maxx, financial performance, 2001-05

Factory outlet centres (FOCs)

Mail order/Internet

Net-a-porter

yoox.com and haburi.com

e-luxury.com

Oki-ni.com

Ebay

ASOS (as seen on screen)



Trade Perspective

The difference between designer and luxury clothing brands

Differing views on 2004 sales performance

2005 so far, and views on tourism

Key factors influencing designer sales

Negative influences - Chav culture

Different consumers shop different retail channels

The Internet - opportunity or threat?

Trend to tailoring

Accessories have been a key driver of the market

The most influential designers

Counterfeiting and parallel trading - more under control?

The effect of Designers at Debenhams and multiples’ high fashion style

Designer prices - too high or good value for money?

Designer clothing sector - strategies for success

Designer clothing sector - future prospects



The Future

Factors most likely to influence the market

Economy

Fashion

High street impact

Price and value for money

Tourism

Counterfeiting

Celebrities

Who will be the winners/losers?

Department stores

Independents

International designer boutiques

Discounters/factory outlet centres

The Internet

Recommendations for retailers to maximise their potential

Make it ‘worth it’

Get the message across

Add value to the whole shopping experience

Respond faster

Make it easier



Forecast

Growth in total sales predicted

Figure 88: Forecast of the UK designerwear market, at current and constant 2005 prices, 2005-10

Gains from increasing consumer awareness

Bright future for the Internet

Factors used in the forecast

Abstract

About the market…

Since the last Mintel report on this topic in 2003, more UK consumers have increased their spending on designer clothing than have been cutting back, however people feel such goods tend to be over priced for their value thus sending them to pursue comparable substitutes. This trend has attributed to the rise in Demi-Couture as a compromise between the custom couture and mainline ready-to-wear clothing. Designer clothing will always be expensive but keeping the focus on the designer prestige, quality of products and differentiating style will continue to keep the attention of the most prominent target market, those in the pre-no family life stage.

Designers have used advertising and celebrities to encourage sales without much success. Where advertisements raise brand awareness they are conversely sending the consumers to high street stores that offer reasonable alternatives to these top end products. In order to significantly increase sales, designers will have to use the Internet as their tool and also increase their appeal through better customer service and a more comfortable atmosphere in stores.

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