The U.S. Ethnic Haircare, Skincare and Color Cosmetics

• Scope And Methodology
• Market Parameters
• Report Methodology
• The Overall Market
• Market Approaches $16 Billion In 1999
• Haircare Products Comprise 75% Of Market
• African-Americans Are Center Of Market
• Factors To Market Growth
• Demographics Promising
• Market To Reach $18 Billion By 2004
• The Ethnic Haircare Market
• Scope Of Market
• Twelve Ethnic Haircare Segments
• Market Approaches $12 Billion In 1999
• Relaxers Claim 30% Of Market
• Factors To Market Growth
• Market Will Exceed $13 Billion By 2004
• A Changing Marketer Landscape
• Carson Claims 20% Of Mass Market
• Natural Products Are Biggest Trend
• Improved Hair Color A Bright Spot
• National Consumer Advertising Exceeds $16 Million
• Distributors Improving Stocking Systems
• Shares By Retail Sector
• Blacks Comprise 40% Of Home Permanent Users
• Ethnic Consumers Overindex In Hairstyling Products
• Hispanics, Blacks Are Top Users Of Hair Coloring
• The Ethnic Cosmetics Market
• Scope Of Market
• Skin Tones Primary Reason For Ethnic Market
• Four Product Groups
• Market At $291 Million In 1999
• Lip Makeup Growing At 14% Pace
• Facial Makeup Comprises Half Of Market
• Factors To Market Growth
• Market To Reach $372 Million In 2004
• A Limited Number Of Marketers
• Procter & Gamble Leads Market
• From Swedish To Sudanese
• Ethnic Marketer Advertising Expenditures Top $6 Million
• General Marketers Control Distribution System
• Mass-Market Dynamics
• 88% Of Hispanic Women Use Lipstick Or Lip Gloss
• Black Women Under-Represented Among Users Of Blusher
• 96% Of Asian-American Women Use Nail Polish
• Usage Of Eye Liner And Mascara
• Only 38% Of Black Women Use Foundation
• 33% Of Hispanic Women Use Loose Powder
• The Ethnic Skincare Market
• Scope Of Market
• Targeting The Racial Groups
• Ingredients Specific To Ethnic Skincare
• Sales At $108 Million In 1999
• Factors To Market Growth
• Sales To Reach $118 Million In 2004
• Handful Of Companies Control Market
• Magic Shave, Dr Palmer's Keep Carson Products In First Place
• Marketers Embrace Advertising
• Alpha-Hydroxy A Key Ingredient
• National Consumer Advertising Expenditures At $4 Million
• Distributors Handle Most Ethnic Skincare Products Retail Dynamics
• Asian-Americans Are Top Users Of Facial Moisturizers
• 55% Of Hispanics Use Shaving Cream Or Gel
• Blacks Are Prime Market For Medicated Skincare

II The Overall Market

• The Products
• Defining Ethnic
• Haircare, Cosmetics, And Skincare Products Covered
• The Retail Landscape
• Historical Background
• First Ethnic Market Was African-Americans
• Roots Of The Market In Haircare
• 1970s Bring Jheri Curls And Big Bucks
• Ahbai Formed By Black Companies
• Emergence Of Black Cosmetics And Skincare Markets
• Hispanic And Asian Markets Still Fledgling
• Regulation Generally Light
• Market Size And Composition
• Market At $16 Billion In 1999
• Incremental Growth In Haircare
• Cosmetics Market Stronger
• Skincare Market Sluggish
• Haircare Products Comprise 75% Of Market
• Shares By Retail Sector
• African-Americans Are Center Of Market
• Factors To Market Growth
• Trend Dynamics
• Demographics Promising
• A Surge In Spending Power
• Ethnic Pride Fuels Market
• Good And Bad News For Haircare
• Slow And Steady Growth Expected For Ethnic Cosmetics
• New Product Stream Required For Skincare
• Projected Market Growth
• Market To Reach $18 Billion By 2004

III Ethnic Haircare

• The Products
• Scope Of Market
• African-American Haircare
• Hispanic And Asian-American Haircare
• Haircare And Black Entrepreneurship
• Mainstream Industry Weighs In
• Relaxers Spur Market
• Hairstyle And Haircare Symbiosis
• Product Types
• Special Cleaning Products Necessary For African-American Hair
• Relaxers And Perms Critical To Ethnic Consumers
• Conditioners Heavily Used By Ethnic Consumers
• Twelve Ethnic Haircare Segments
• Lye Label Must Carry Warning
• Market Size And Composition
• Market Approaches $12 Billion In 1999
• Mixed Performance Among Market Segments
• Relaxer Sales At $356 Million
• Sales Stagnant In Dress And Condition Segment
• Styling Products At Steady 2% Growth
• Growth Retreats In Coloring Segment
• Relaxers Claim 30% Of Market
• Black Women Dominate Market
• Factors To Market Growth
• Demographics Point To Future Growth
• Ethnic Consumers Are Prime Haircare Shoppers
• Ethnic Consumers, Ethnic Products
• Children's Segment Continues To Grow
• Targeting Men
• A Natural Tradition
• Absence Of High-Maintenance Styles Hampers Market
• New Products To Drive Market Are Lacking
• Projected Market Growth
• Market Will Exceed $13 Billion By 2004
• The Marketers
• A Changing Landscape
• Mainstreamers Check In
• Other Mergers Change Market
• Market Leaders Now A Varied Group
• Marketer And Brand Shares
• Note On Share Estimates
• Carson Claims 20% Of Mass Market
• Soft Sheen A Strong Second
• Luster Products In Third
• Revlon/Ap Products Holds On To Fourth Place
• Pro-Line Comes In Fifth
• Bottom Five A Mix Of Marketers
• Carson Is Top Marketer Of Relaxers
• Soft Sheen's Conditioning Products Lead
• Soft Sheen Also First In Styling Products
• Carson Holds Nearly Half Of Color Segment
• Soft Sheen Claims One-Third Of Curl Activator Sales
• The Competitive Situation
• Dearth Of New Styles Cools Market
• Number Of Leading Marketers Narrows
• Majors Change Market
• Price Concerns
• Competitive Profiles
• Carson Aggressively Expanding
• Soft Sheen Under L'oréal
• Luster Products Stays Modern
• Pro-Line Continues To Grow
• Alberto-Culver And Sally Beauty
• Marketing And New Product Trends
• Ethnic Stars And Hairstyle Trends
• Natural Products Are Biggest Trend
• Improved Hair Color A Bright Spot
• The Case For Children's Products
• Men's Segment Gaining Strength
• Consumer Advertising And Promotion
• National Consumer Advertising Exceeds $16 Million
• Four Companies Account For Majority Of Advertising
• Bigger Names Mean Bigger Budgets
• Going For The Professionals' Dollars
• Appealing To Women's Sense Of Power
• Afrocentric Positioning
• Mass Marketers Giving More Attention
• Examples Of Consumer Advertising
• Distribution And Retail
• Distributors Improving Stocking Systems
• Shares By Retail Sector
• Mass Merchandisers And B&Bs Gain At Drugstores' Expense
• Mass Merchandisers Expanding Ethnic Stocks
• The B&B Arena
• Supermarkets Trail In Sales
• The Consumer
• Simmons Market Research Bureau Data
• Blacks Comprise 40% Of Home Permanent Users
• Heavy Users Of Home Permanents
• Ethnic Consumers Overindex In Hairstyling Products
• 18% Of Hispanics Are Heavy Users Of Hairstyling Products
• Hispanics, Blacks Are Top Users Of Hair Coloring
• Less Ethnic Skew In Heavy Use Of Hair Color
• Ethnics Above-Average Users Of Conditioners/Creme Rinse
• Use Of Shampoo Highest Among Asian-Americans
• Three-Fourths Of African-American Women Relax Their Hair

IV Ethnic Cosmetics

• The Products
• Scope Of Market
• Skin Tones Primary Reason For Ethnic Market
• Color Cosmetics Are Nothing New
• Many Traditional Cosmetics Were Unsafe
• Problem Ingredients: Titanium And Oil
• Barbara Walden Develops First Black Cosmetics
• Flori Roberts, Johnson Publishing Enter Field
• Hispanic Cosmetic Needs Historically Neglected
• Hispanic Culture Is A Makeup Culture
• Asian-American Companies Answer Need
• Product Types
• Four Product Groups
• Facial Makeup
• Lip Coloring
• Nail Care
• Eye Makeup
• FDA Oversight Of Product Safety
• Market Size And Composition
• Market At $291 Million In 1999
• Market Steady, But Not As Strong
• Profits Based On Unit Growth
• Lip Makeup Growing At 14% Pace
• Facial Makeup Comprises Half Of Market
• Factors To Market Growth
• Outlook Volatile
• Size Matters
• Hispanic Market Remains Under-Tapped
• Asian-American Market Poised To Grow
• Problems Still Persist
• Projected Market Growth
• Market To Reach $372 Million In 2004
• The Marketers
• A Limited Number Of Marketers
• Marketer And Brand Shares
• Note On Share Estimates
• Procter & Gamble Leads Market
• Revlon Holds Second Place
• Carson Products Comes In Third With Posner
• L'oréal's Maybelline In Fourth Place
• Pavion Takes Fifth Place
• Cover Girl Is Clear Leader In Facial Makeup
• Pavion Tops In Lip Colorings
• Arthur Matney Leads In Nail Care
• The Eye Makeup Line-Up
• The Competitive Situation
• Market In New Inning
• Mainstream Marketers Target Ethnics
• Competition Increases At Prestige Level
• Competitive Profiles
• Procter & Gamble Leads The Way
• "Cosmetics Is One Business" At Revlon
• Carson As Cosmetics Marketer
• Maybelline Seeks New Path For Ethnic Cosmetics
• Pavion Reaches Out To All Ethnic Groups
• Color Me Beautiful Expanded
• J Strickland Expands Zuri
• Yee Sisters Take Zhen Approach
• Marketing And New Product Trends
• From Swedish To Sudanese
• Makeup Makeovers
• Natural Product Trend Spreads To Makeup
• Ethnic Celebrities Tout Their Own Lines
• Consumer Advertising And Promotion
• Note On Advertising Data
• Ethnic Marketer Advertising Expenditures Top $6 Million
• Johnson Publishing Runaway First-Place Advertiser
• Carson In Second Place
• Biocosmetics A Distant Third
• Most Products Advertised In Black Magazines
• Mainstreamers Integrate Ads
• Supermodels And Super-Athletes
• Price And Color Range Are Key Advertising Themes
• Marketers Take Advantage Of Cable
• Promotions Crucial In Ethnic Market
• Mainstream Maybelline Adopts Ethnic Marketer
• Strategies
• Coupons Still Popular
• Examples Of Advertising
• Distribution And Retail
• General Marketers Control Distribution System
• Shares By Retail Sector
• Mass-Market Dynamics
• Drugstore Woes
• The B&B Sector
• Direct Sales Believed Strong
• The Consumer
• Simmons Market Research Bureau Data
• 88% Of Hispanic Women Use Lipstick Or Lip Gloss
• Black Women Under-Represented Among Users Of Blusher
• 96% Of Asian-American Women Use Nail Polish
• 21% Of Hispanic Women Heavy Users Of Eye Liner
• Most Women Prefer Pencil Eye Liner
• 72% Of Hispanic Women Use Mascara
• 38% Of Hispanic Women Use Powder Eye Shadow
• Only 38% Of Black Women Use Foundation
• Most Women Prefer Liquid Foundation
• 33% Of Hispanic Women Use Loose Powder
• 40% Of Asian Women Use Pressed Face Powder

V Ethnic Skincare

• The Products
• Scope Of Market
• African-Americans Have Special Skin Needs
• Hispanic Needs Not Addressed
• Delicacy Of Asian Skin
• Ingredients Specific To Ethnic Skincare
• Do Ahas Really Work?
• Government Regulation
• Skincare Products Under FDA Jurisdiction
• Hydroquinone
• Fda And Alpha-Hydroxy Acids
• Study Supports Safety Of Ahas
• Market Size And Composition
• Sales At $108 Million In 1999
• Little To Cheer About
• Shaving Products Claim One-Fourth Of Market
• Fade Creams Central To Market
• Cocoa Butter In Half Of All Products
• Some Hispanic And Asian Consumers Look Abroad For Products
• Factors To Market Growth
• Overall Prospects
• Demographics A Boon
• Skincare A Healthcare Issue
• Working Women, Natural Aesthetic Give Impetus To Market
• Marketers Find New Ways To Apply AHAS
• Fade Creams Suffer From Political Context
• Men's Shaving Segment Fares Better
• Hispanics' Needs Still Not Addressed
• Asian-American Market Comes Into Its Own
• Projected Market Growth
• Sales To Reach $118 Million In 2004
• The Marketers
• Handful Of Companies Control Market
• Marketer And Brand Shares
• Note On Share Estimates
• Magic Shave, Dr Palmer's Keep Carson Products In First Place
• Kiwi Brands Holds Second
• Black Opal Places Biocosmetics Third
• J Strickland And Et Browne Round Out Top Five
• In Fade Creams, J Strickland Ranks First
• Skin Moisturizer Sales Led By Et Browne
• Black Opal First In Cleansers
• Carson's Magic Shave Is Tops Among Shaving Creams
• The Competitive Situation
• New Products, New Lines Distinguish Market
• Prestige Level Grows More Competitive
• Hispanic Consumers Move To The Mainstream
• General-Market Products Reach Out To African-Americans

Competitive Profiles

• Carson Leads The Pack
• Kiwi Brands Belongs To Biggest Kid On The Block
• Biocosmetics Carves Out A Place
• J Strickland Offers Nadinola, Black & White
• Cocoa Butter Central To Et Browne's Products
• BET—From Cable To Color Code
• Color Me Beautiful Strides Into Skincare Market
• Zhen Cosmetics For Yellow Undertones
• Marketing And New Product Trends
• Marketers Embrace Advertising
• Alpha-Hydroxy A Key Ingredient
• Cocoa Butter Still A Catalyst
• Movement In Men's Products
• Consumer Advertising And Promotion
• National Consumer Advertising Expenditures At $4 Million
• ET Browne Takes First Place
• Johnson Publishing Ranks Second
• Biocosmetics Third
• Iman In Fourth Place
• Limited Ethnic Advertising From Mainstreamers
• Cocoa Butter Featured In Palmer's Ads
• Light-Skinned Models And Fade Cream Ads
• Unique Look From Johnson Publishing
• Promotions Big With Biocosmetics
• Promotions At The Prestige Level
• Examples Of Consumer Advertising
• Distribution And Retail
• Distributors Handle Most Ethnic Skincare Products
• Shares By Retail Sector
• Merchandisers Have Varying Placement Priorities
• The Consumer
• Simmons Market Research Bureau Data
• Asian-Americans Are Top Users Of Facial Moisturizers
• 49% Of Asian Women Are Heavy Users Of Facial
• Moisturizers
• 55% Of Hispanics Use Shaving Cream Or Gel
• Blacks Are Prime Market For Medicated Skincare

Appendix I: Examples Of Consumer Advertising And Promotions

Appendix Ii: Addresses Of Selected Marketers